How Dior’s pre-fall 2024 show is a tribute to Marlene Dietrich’s androgynous beauty

For a designer who often finds inspiration in remarkable women, it’s surprising that Maria Grazia Chiuri, womenswear creative director at Dior, had yet to explore the enigmatic figure of Marlene Dietrich. The German-born actress made waves in Hollywood and beyond with her androgynous beauty that captured the zeitgeist of the early 20th century. Whether smoking a cigar while wearing a man’s suit or clad in a revealing negligee that was the epitome of feminine elegance, Dietrich is, to this day, one of the most fascinating performers in the history of filmmaking, and a symbol of the golden age of silver screen glamour.

The actress, who was a personal client of the late Christian Dior, was on Chiuri’s mind when she conceived the label’s pre-fall 2024 collection, which the brand just unveiled in New York at a star-studded show held at the Brooklyn Museum on April 15. The event was attended by celebrities such as Rosamund Pike, Anya Taylor-Joy and Haerin from K-pop girl group NewJeans.

“By looking at Marlene Dietrich’s wardrobe, I was able to delve into the very tangible reality of one of the first Dior customers,” Chiuri tells Style, adding that she sees Dietrich as “the bridge” between two fashion capitals: Paris, where Dior is based, and New York, where Christian Dior opened a store in 1948, just one year after establishing the maison. He described his trips to the city in a chapter of his autobiography, opening up a dialogue between the two metropolises, as Chiuri sees it.

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